Well I finally got it out. 

Decided that the contact cleaner that I was using was not thick enough and grabbed some WD40, sprayed it inside the lock and also down into the barrel release hole.  Then I was able with a bit of giggling, bumping and holding my tong in the right place able to rotate the lock to the I – II and start positions.  Once I rotated it to II the barrel release button could be pushed in with my 2.5mm Allen key, and the barrel slid out.  Now I can see what the problem is.

I bit of filling, wet-n-dry paper and some wheel bearing grease and it is moving a lot freer. 

I haven’t pulled the tumbler out of the barrel, just rounded the last pin on the end.  It’s something to do with the way the new cars allow the accessory electrical circuit to kept running until you remove the key.  A mechanical interlock device to do something that could be done simply with electronics and the door open switch on the drivers door.

Now to put it back together, could be another problem, as I didn’t rotate the steering wheel far enough from the lock position before I pulled the barrel out so now that is locked and I cant get the barrel back in.

Need some help with the steering lock and ignition barrel?

It should be common to the Holden/Vaxhell/Opel range of small cars, this one is in a Zafira but I know it’s the same in an Astra as well.

The steering wheel is now in the locked position, key barrel is jammed in position “0” and I can’t rotate it with the key.  I have tried some graphite as well as some CRC contact cleaner neither have freed it up. 

I have also tried tapping with a mallet to try and get the tumblers freed up as well, that hasn’t helped

I was following these instructions from complaints.motorsm.com but can’t get past step 5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2000

TITLE: ASTRA IGNITION BARREL FIXED ... NO COST!

ISSUE: IGNITION                  *ADVICE*

POST: "I have a TS 2000 Astra and the key kept getting jammed. It won’t turn. It happened about two years ago and cost $300 from memory. I have searched /googled every site in the world or so it seems on this problem. Seems there are Many Astra owners with this problem.

Today - fixed it ... and it didn’t cost a penny.

Step 1. Pop off the front top cover immediately behind the steering wheel. The one which the indicator and wipers stalks go through.

Step 2. Get a star (like an allen key) key and undo one screw from underneath, and two on the top sides (Revealed after step 1).

Step 3. Depress the latch on the side of the wiper stalk assy and slide out the whole assy from the slot, towards you.

Step 4. Get a small nail or very small screw driver and poke it into the small hole revealed by removing the wiper assy.

Step 5. Put your key into the gin and while holding the nail in the small hole (pressing inwards) pull the whole barrel assy out. Easy! (There's a small spring loaded 'catch' on the barrel which locks it inside the steering column.

Step 6. Look at the opp end of the barrel to the key and see a small pin which rotates when the key is turned. The last position of this pin, when you remove the key from the barrel is where the problem lies. There's a small 'ramp' inside the barrel which you can see. It will be burred and pitted from use. (and a 'sharp' end on the pin. Steel pin and soft metal barrel)

Step 7. Use a small file to smooth the metal ramp.

Step 8. Rotate the key all the way "on". Depress the Pin in slightly (against a spring) so you can rotate the barrel to the end and the pin will pop out. (Don’t Lose It, or the small spring inside the hole the pin came out of!)

Step 9. File the fat end of the pin to look rounded, not flat. This makes it easier to ride up the ramp and prevent damaging the *hit metal ramp again.

Step 10 Reinstall the pin and rotate the key so the pin can’t fly out.

Step 11. Put a small amt of grease on the pin and work with the key backwards and forwards to ensure it is working OK.

Step 12. Hold the spring catch (Step 5) down with a small screwdriver and reinsert the barrel. It can only go back in One Way! Trail and error will find it!

Step 13. Reverse assemble the stalks, covers etc.

Saved around $140 in parts.

Good luck " 

POSTED BY: ROB ADAMS - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS 3/12/2007  

How much space is actually in the cockpit?

I’m fairly tall, or tall enough to be annoying when it comes to cars,

195 – 197cm tall (77.5”), and have a seated height approximately 96cm (37.8”) however this varies a little depending on the angle of the seat back.

Can someone help me out with some dimensions.

A -  is obviously the length along the floor, from rear bulkhead to front bulkhead

B – it the height along the rear bulkhead (I know it has a bend in it)

C – height from floor to underside of roll bar or roof, I’m guessing there will be a couple of inches difference depending it a roll bar has been fitted or not.

see photo Cassis2 for markings

Managed to get myself along to a meeting of the “Victorian Clubman Builders Group” today. 

I found this very useful as I was able to meet and chat to a few different people that are all building or have built cars and gone through the process of complying with the Australian Design Rules (ADR’s) and registering them for road use.  Attached are a few of the photos. 

The first car is Ian’s which is going to be a lotus 23 inspired design; it is using ford focus Mazda 3 components, including some uprights that he has modified.

The second car if Neil’s “Godiva” project car for race magazine.  It is using a 3.8 litre Mitsubishi v6 engine and running gear.

regards Ryan